New Bunny Owner Guide
Suggested Reading List
· “Your Rabbit; A Kids Guide to Raising and Showing”, written by Nancy Searle. Published by Storey Books. ISBN 0-88266-767-X
This book a must have for bunny owners, covering all aspects of bunny care in a great easy to understand format.
· “The Really Useful Bunny Guide”, written by Carolina James. Published by T.F.H. Kingdom. ISBN 185279033-4
Another great book to have, this one goes a bit deeper into understanding your rabbits behaviors, but also has a lot of great bunny care info.
You can get both of these books, and others, for great prices on Amazon.com!
Bunny Care Basics Feeding:
If your new bunny is young, feed only a good quality rabbit pellet & hay until it is at least 3 months old. Feeding treats before 3 months of age can result in an upset tummy in your new rabbit, and this condition can kill young rabbits very quickly. Acceptable treats for rabbits include banana, carrot (limit as they are high in sugar), apple slices, plain oats, cheerios, berries, or commercially prepared Rabbit treats.
The brand of pellet I feed is Manna Pro, however I have also used Purina, Armada, & Oxbow brands and would recommend those as well. I do advise that you do not feed anything made by Hartz, Kaytee, or other brands readily available at the grocery store (or anything with colorful bits). These feeds are cheap for a reason, and may be sitting on the shelf for a long time resulting in vitamin loss and/or spoilage. Change feeds gradually if you plan to switch to a different brand. I recommend feeding 50% old brand and 50% new brand for a week before switching fully to the new brand.
Be careful not to over feed your bunny. For young rabbits you can keep their dish full till around 4 months of age, then reduce to ½ - 1 cup of feed per day, depending on the breed. Free choice access to good quality Timothy hay along with the pellets is acceptable as well.
If you suspect your bunny may have loose stools, giving dry oatmeal (plain) in his/her feed dish for a day or two will often help clear it up. It may also be that your bunny needs more fiber. I often give a little Bounce Back. You can get that in a packet at TSC or other feed stores. I keep it on hand as it is a life saver in dehydration cases! Probios is also really good to have on hand. They usually love the blue paste.
Food dishes should be either heavy ceramic or metal crocks, or securely fastened to the cage. Bunnies love to fling their dishes! Water must be available at ALL times, and may be offered in a crock or in a water bottle. If you decide to use a water bottle, check the mechanism to be sure that the water is flowing properly daily. I use Lixit brand wide mouth bottles as they are easier to clean and fill. Bunnies that have no water, will not eat, and can become gravely ill within a very short period of time if their tummies are not kept working.
The Cage:
The size of the cage needed will depend on the size that your bunny will reach as an adult. For a 6-8 pound mature rabbit, I suggest at least 24” x 30” x 18” tall at the very minimum. For dwarfs 24"x24" or 18"x30". The bigger the better is it as far as cage size goes. An indoor rabbit can get away with slightly smaller cage if it is allowed to run the house several hours per day. The rabbit should be able to stand up, stretch out, and turn around easily without touching the sides/top. The cage you chose may have a solid floor, or it may have a wire floor. If it has a solid floor, you will want to provide a litter box. If it has a wire floor, you should provide a resting pad, especially for rex furred or heavy breeds. These are available at pet stores, or you can make your own. Grass mats are wonderful for this. The board should be large enough that your bunny can lie on it. A new and fun alternative to the traditional cage is to design and create your own out of storage cube pieces. Lots of ideas and info on these can be found online. They are called C&C cages (cubes and coroplast).
Here is a good indoor starter cage for a Netherland Dwarf: Kaytee Dwarf Rabbit Kit (Get a Lixit wide mouth 16 or 32 oz water bottle, and throw out the Kaytee feed)
If you would like something nicer, or for larger rabbits: Living World cages
If you house your rabbit in an outdoor hutch, make sure it has a shelter to get out of the wind and rain. The issue of keeping water thawed in the winter can be tricky. Either, you will need several water bottles to rotate and thaw, or you will need a durable crock that you can easily knock the ice out of several times per day. In hot weather, be sure the hutch is in a cool shady spot, as rabbits do not tolerate heat well. Frozen pop bottles, frozen ceramic tiles, and low power fans are much appreciated during hot weather. You can also put ice in their water bottle or crock.
If your bunny’s cage has a pan or solid bottom, you will need to fill this with a soft absorbent material. I recommend using horse stall pellets covered by softer material, aspen shavings, or pine. Do NOT use Cedar! The oils in the Cedar bedding are very strong and can quickly harm your bunny’s delicate respiratory system. Bedding should also produce very little dust. You can also use incontinence pads or newspaper if there is a floor grill to keep your rabbit from chewing on it. The pads are very effective. Old towels can also be used and washed daily. Cat litter should not be used for rabbits as it is very dusty, and can cause life threatening issues if ingested.
Cage trays/litter boxes should be cleaned frequently to avoid ammonia build up. High ammonia levels are not only hard for people to deal with, but can cause irreversible respiratory problems in your new pet. Removing wet litter daily then cleaning the whole cage weekly is a good way to keep things fresh and clean.
Grooming:
Most bunnies enjoy a soft brushing. This is a fun way to bond with your bunny, as well as helping him/her shed their coat during a molt. Rubber type brushes made for small dogs are very good at removing loose hair from your bunny. Rabbits tend to molt twice per year. If your rabbit is an indoor pet, he/she may shed very lightly during the spring and fall. If your rabbit is outside, he/she may shed very heavily to prepare for the coming weather. During times of a molt, providing a bit extra fiber in the form of hay or canned pumpkin can help prevent hairballs (which the rabbit cannot rid themselves of the way a cat can). Some rabbits will also enjoy a spoonful of canned pineapple juice to help dissolve any ingested hair in their system.
Nail trimming should be done on a regular basis. Depending on the amount of exercise and cage type, this could be every week or it could be every 3-4 weeks. Rex furred rabbits seem to need it more frequently. Trimming can be done with small dog/cat nail trimmers, or human nail clippers. If you are having trouble trimming the nails on your bunny, you may check with your local vet or pet store and ask if they do trimming. If you are close to us, you may bring your bunny by for trimming by appointment.
Bathing of rabbits is not advised except in extreme conditions such as neglect or accidental contamination. Rabbit fur takes a long time to dry out and washing damages the coat. Continually wet fur can also cause skin infections and can attract insects in outdoor settings.
Other Health Concerns:
Sneezing can be a harmless reaction to an allergen or dust, or it can be a symptom of a serious respiratory problem. If your rabbit has matted moist front paws (from trying to clear its nose), thick or discolored nasal discharge, or labored breathing, you should take him/her to the vet immediately. Also signs of sudden weight-loss, lethargy, not eating, or other abnormal behavior should be addressed by your vet. I would advise finding a vet in your area that treats rabbits before you have an emergency.
Spay/Castrating is advised for any rabbit that is purchased as a pet. Intact rabbits may develop hormonal issues as they hit 4-6 months of age. Does (females) can become territorial, and moody. Bucks (males) may start mounting things, and spraying urine across furniture, carpet, or even you! These behaviors are more common in some breeds than others, and in rabbits living in a multi-rabbit household. Spaying/Castrating will also prevent possible health problems. The cost/risk of castrating a buck is often less than spaying a doe. Many pet buyers chose a buck for this reason.
Lop eared may need to have their ears cleaned on a regular basis as well. Wiping your lop-eared bunny’s ears out with a baby wipe weekly may prevent buildup. If you discover large amounts of buildup, a foul smell, or see your rabbit continually digging at its ears, please take it to a vet for cleaning and examination. It may have an ear infection or ear mite infestation.
Rex furred breeds (Velveteen Lops, Mini Rex, etc) are at higher risk of developing sores on their feet if they are in cages with wire floors. If you own one of these types of rabbits please check the feet regularly to make sure that they are not having this problem. Providing resting pads can help prevent this issue.
If your rabbit (particularly a young one) develops diarrhea, or a bloated belly, this is an immensely serious situation and must be treated immediately. This is what I do: 1. Remove all pellet feed, greens, etc. ONLY feed hay and dry oatmeal (Quaker oats). 2. Remove water, and replace with an electrolyte solution such as Bounce Back. Only give a little at a time. If they have free access to plain water, they will often drink so much that it throws their electrolyte balance off which will kill them VERY quickly. 3. Start them on a probiotic like Probios. 4. If your rabbit is grinding it's teeth this is an even worse situation. You much keep them eating or the gut will shut down. Reglan can be used to help improve gut function. The underlying cause could be many different things and there is no time to waste in treating it(Clostridium, Coccidiosis, ingestion of a toxin or foreign body, E.Coli, heavy parasite load, etc). . This is the single biggest killer of young rabbits.
Having Fun with Your Rabbit:
There are lots of things you can do with your rabbit to enhance your bond and provide hours of entertainment. New sports that are gaining popularity is Rabbit Agility and Rabbit Hopping. If you want to see what it is all about, check out videos on YouTube.com! You can also teach your rabbit tricks, or it's name. Toys are always fun and can be as simple as a box of shredded newspaper, a paper towel tube stuffed with hay, or a cup or safety opened and washed can. Some rabbits enjoy tossing around hard plastic baby toy keys or rattles. Toys made for parrots are also good options. Do not give them plastic cat toy balls. They can get stuck in their mouths causing damage!
You may also choose to show your rabbit at shows. If you are a youth, you may be able to join a 4H Rabbit or small animal club in your area. This is a great way to learn more about rabbits, and meet other rabbit people. They often do lots of rabbit themed activities, and help educate other people about rabbits. The Oakland County Rabbit Club meets the 4th Thursday each month at the fairgrounds in the office building.
If you have any other questions or concerns about your new pet, feel free to contact me! Have fun with your new rabbit!
· “Your Rabbit; A Kids Guide to Raising and Showing”, written by Nancy Searle. Published by Storey Books. ISBN 0-88266-767-X
This book a must have for bunny owners, covering all aspects of bunny care in a great easy to understand format.
· “The Really Useful Bunny Guide”, written by Carolina James. Published by T.F.H. Kingdom. ISBN 185279033-4
Another great book to have, this one goes a bit deeper into understanding your rabbits behaviors, but also has a lot of great bunny care info.
You can get both of these books, and others, for great prices on Amazon.com!
Bunny Care Basics Feeding:
If your new bunny is young, feed only a good quality rabbit pellet & hay until it is at least 3 months old. Feeding treats before 3 months of age can result in an upset tummy in your new rabbit, and this condition can kill young rabbits very quickly. Acceptable treats for rabbits include banana, carrot (limit as they are high in sugar), apple slices, plain oats, cheerios, berries, or commercially prepared Rabbit treats.
The brand of pellet I feed is Manna Pro, however I have also used Purina, Armada, & Oxbow brands and would recommend those as well. I do advise that you do not feed anything made by Hartz, Kaytee, or other brands readily available at the grocery store (or anything with colorful bits). These feeds are cheap for a reason, and may be sitting on the shelf for a long time resulting in vitamin loss and/or spoilage. Change feeds gradually if you plan to switch to a different brand. I recommend feeding 50% old brand and 50% new brand for a week before switching fully to the new brand.
Be careful not to over feed your bunny. For young rabbits you can keep their dish full till around 4 months of age, then reduce to ½ - 1 cup of feed per day, depending on the breed. Free choice access to good quality Timothy hay along with the pellets is acceptable as well.
If you suspect your bunny may have loose stools, giving dry oatmeal (plain) in his/her feed dish for a day or two will often help clear it up. It may also be that your bunny needs more fiber. I often give a little Bounce Back. You can get that in a packet at TSC or other feed stores. I keep it on hand as it is a life saver in dehydration cases! Probios is also really good to have on hand. They usually love the blue paste.
Food dishes should be either heavy ceramic or metal crocks, or securely fastened to the cage. Bunnies love to fling their dishes! Water must be available at ALL times, and may be offered in a crock or in a water bottle. If you decide to use a water bottle, check the mechanism to be sure that the water is flowing properly daily. I use Lixit brand wide mouth bottles as they are easier to clean and fill. Bunnies that have no water, will not eat, and can become gravely ill within a very short period of time if their tummies are not kept working.
The Cage:
The size of the cage needed will depend on the size that your bunny will reach as an adult. For a 6-8 pound mature rabbit, I suggest at least 24” x 30” x 18” tall at the very minimum. For dwarfs 24"x24" or 18"x30". The bigger the better is it as far as cage size goes. An indoor rabbit can get away with slightly smaller cage if it is allowed to run the house several hours per day. The rabbit should be able to stand up, stretch out, and turn around easily without touching the sides/top. The cage you chose may have a solid floor, or it may have a wire floor. If it has a solid floor, you will want to provide a litter box. If it has a wire floor, you should provide a resting pad, especially for rex furred or heavy breeds. These are available at pet stores, or you can make your own. Grass mats are wonderful for this. The board should be large enough that your bunny can lie on it. A new and fun alternative to the traditional cage is to design and create your own out of storage cube pieces. Lots of ideas and info on these can be found online. They are called C&C cages (cubes and coroplast).
Here is a good indoor starter cage for a Netherland Dwarf: Kaytee Dwarf Rabbit Kit (Get a Lixit wide mouth 16 or 32 oz water bottle, and throw out the Kaytee feed)
If you would like something nicer, or for larger rabbits: Living World cages
If you house your rabbit in an outdoor hutch, make sure it has a shelter to get out of the wind and rain. The issue of keeping water thawed in the winter can be tricky. Either, you will need several water bottles to rotate and thaw, or you will need a durable crock that you can easily knock the ice out of several times per day. In hot weather, be sure the hutch is in a cool shady spot, as rabbits do not tolerate heat well. Frozen pop bottles, frozen ceramic tiles, and low power fans are much appreciated during hot weather. You can also put ice in their water bottle or crock.
If your bunny’s cage has a pan or solid bottom, you will need to fill this with a soft absorbent material. I recommend using horse stall pellets covered by softer material, aspen shavings, or pine. Do NOT use Cedar! The oils in the Cedar bedding are very strong and can quickly harm your bunny’s delicate respiratory system. Bedding should also produce very little dust. You can also use incontinence pads or newspaper if there is a floor grill to keep your rabbit from chewing on it. The pads are very effective. Old towels can also be used and washed daily. Cat litter should not be used for rabbits as it is very dusty, and can cause life threatening issues if ingested.
Cage trays/litter boxes should be cleaned frequently to avoid ammonia build up. High ammonia levels are not only hard for people to deal with, but can cause irreversible respiratory problems in your new pet. Removing wet litter daily then cleaning the whole cage weekly is a good way to keep things fresh and clean.
Grooming:
Most bunnies enjoy a soft brushing. This is a fun way to bond with your bunny, as well as helping him/her shed their coat during a molt. Rubber type brushes made for small dogs are very good at removing loose hair from your bunny. Rabbits tend to molt twice per year. If your rabbit is an indoor pet, he/she may shed very lightly during the spring and fall. If your rabbit is outside, he/she may shed very heavily to prepare for the coming weather. During times of a molt, providing a bit extra fiber in the form of hay or canned pumpkin can help prevent hairballs (which the rabbit cannot rid themselves of the way a cat can). Some rabbits will also enjoy a spoonful of canned pineapple juice to help dissolve any ingested hair in their system.
Nail trimming should be done on a regular basis. Depending on the amount of exercise and cage type, this could be every week or it could be every 3-4 weeks. Rex furred rabbits seem to need it more frequently. Trimming can be done with small dog/cat nail trimmers, or human nail clippers. If you are having trouble trimming the nails on your bunny, you may check with your local vet or pet store and ask if they do trimming. If you are close to us, you may bring your bunny by for trimming by appointment.
Bathing of rabbits is not advised except in extreme conditions such as neglect or accidental contamination. Rabbit fur takes a long time to dry out and washing damages the coat. Continually wet fur can also cause skin infections and can attract insects in outdoor settings.
Other Health Concerns:
Sneezing can be a harmless reaction to an allergen or dust, or it can be a symptom of a serious respiratory problem. If your rabbit has matted moist front paws (from trying to clear its nose), thick or discolored nasal discharge, or labored breathing, you should take him/her to the vet immediately. Also signs of sudden weight-loss, lethargy, not eating, or other abnormal behavior should be addressed by your vet. I would advise finding a vet in your area that treats rabbits before you have an emergency.
Spay/Castrating is advised for any rabbit that is purchased as a pet. Intact rabbits may develop hormonal issues as they hit 4-6 months of age. Does (females) can become territorial, and moody. Bucks (males) may start mounting things, and spraying urine across furniture, carpet, or even you! These behaviors are more common in some breeds than others, and in rabbits living in a multi-rabbit household. Spaying/Castrating will also prevent possible health problems. The cost/risk of castrating a buck is often less than spaying a doe. Many pet buyers chose a buck for this reason.
Lop eared may need to have their ears cleaned on a regular basis as well. Wiping your lop-eared bunny’s ears out with a baby wipe weekly may prevent buildup. If you discover large amounts of buildup, a foul smell, or see your rabbit continually digging at its ears, please take it to a vet for cleaning and examination. It may have an ear infection or ear mite infestation.
Rex furred breeds (Velveteen Lops, Mini Rex, etc) are at higher risk of developing sores on their feet if they are in cages with wire floors. If you own one of these types of rabbits please check the feet regularly to make sure that they are not having this problem. Providing resting pads can help prevent this issue.
If your rabbit (particularly a young one) develops diarrhea, or a bloated belly, this is an immensely serious situation and must be treated immediately. This is what I do: 1. Remove all pellet feed, greens, etc. ONLY feed hay and dry oatmeal (Quaker oats). 2. Remove water, and replace with an electrolyte solution such as Bounce Back. Only give a little at a time. If they have free access to plain water, they will often drink so much that it throws their electrolyte balance off which will kill them VERY quickly. 3. Start them on a probiotic like Probios. 4. If your rabbit is grinding it's teeth this is an even worse situation. You much keep them eating or the gut will shut down. Reglan can be used to help improve gut function. The underlying cause could be many different things and there is no time to waste in treating it(Clostridium, Coccidiosis, ingestion of a toxin or foreign body, E.Coli, heavy parasite load, etc). . This is the single biggest killer of young rabbits.
Having Fun with Your Rabbit:
There are lots of things you can do with your rabbit to enhance your bond and provide hours of entertainment. New sports that are gaining popularity is Rabbit Agility and Rabbit Hopping. If you want to see what it is all about, check out videos on YouTube.com! You can also teach your rabbit tricks, or it's name. Toys are always fun and can be as simple as a box of shredded newspaper, a paper towel tube stuffed with hay, or a cup or safety opened and washed can. Some rabbits enjoy tossing around hard plastic baby toy keys or rattles. Toys made for parrots are also good options. Do not give them plastic cat toy balls. They can get stuck in their mouths causing damage!
You may also choose to show your rabbit at shows. If you are a youth, you may be able to join a 4H Rabbit or small animal club in your area. This is a great way to learn more about rabbits, and meet other rabbit people. They often do lots of rabbit themed activities, and help educate other people about rabbits. The Oakland County Rabbit Club meets the 4th Thursday each month at the fairgrounds in the office building.
If you have any other questions or concerns about your new pet, feel free to contact me! Have fun with your new rabbit!